last summer, while trolling craigslist, I found an ad for a sale were an old gentleman was getting rid of a bunch of projects he was never going to get around to tackling. And in the pics I saw an old disassembled lathe, which I needed about as much as another hole in my head. But, I figured I would see if there was anything else of interest there. Well, not much else caught my eye, but that lathe was too good to pass up, as he ended up offering the whole thing to me for $50.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53883826775_421fe9963a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6wGq8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53883741064_9054451765_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6wfWm)
No chucks, no tooling, no change gears, and who knows what else was missing at that point, but for the money and the fact that it had the legs, a drip pan, the countershaft assembly, and the fact that he had a forklift to put it all in the back of my truck on a pallet made the decision for me. I figured I could use the counter shaft with my little mill, and the two cone pulleys for leather belts would come in handy at some point.
But what made me decide to bring it back to life was this:
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see that faint circle in the paint? This was underneath it:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53920760379_d9e6287d9d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q9MZup)
So, I decided to find out some more info on it, and after checking the serial number against the Logan database
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I found out it was from '43, one of the earliest lathes Logan made.
And now I have a good winter project, so I am stripping it down and removing the poor paint job someone did. I much prefer original paint, and there is enough underneath the grey that was laid down as to make the whole thing worthwhile.
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stripping down the headstock for cleaning
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Pulling the rear bearing, which is, fortunately an off the shelf part, the front bearing is not, so it is being soaked right now, and I will flush it out and repack it.
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Disassembled
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54236167459_367fc83d25_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qCEx2v)
Parts ready for cleaning/derusting
And this thing is filthy! Hardened grease and dirt mostly, but the "new" paint has kept it pretty good.
Thanks for bringing us along. Great pics!
A very worthwhile project for sure!
Disassembling the spindle. Between 80 years of dried grease and probably a bit of corrosion things are a little tight and need a bit of extra work to get apart.
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torn down enough to get the bearing soaked in mineral spirits in the garage, and after that Simple Green.
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There is a standard 1-1/2 8 nut on the spindle threads to protect them, along with giving a better base to sit on in the bath.
At the other end of the spindle, it rides on this bearing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54320023082_27159b3911_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5jo7)
This is bearing that rides on the left hand side, just a basic off the shelf bearing, and so I just replaced it. Supply house counter man was curious how old it was, and impressed it had been there since WWII.
All cleaned up and the cone pulley and bull gear being test fitted.
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When I went to grease the bearing, I realized that I was out of high temp, and as I am not going to be able to get back to it for a few days and I don't want is to rust after being stripped of all protectant, I gave it a coat of light oil, as this will come off easily when I get back too it. Threads have been scrubbed since the photo was taken.
While I had the spindle soaking, I decided to get the apron cleaned up.
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Someone along the line had made of with the half-nuts and the rack they ride in, but I found another complete apron online to mix and match parts with that. Took some more soaking and a bit of scrubbing, but they have great threads
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You can see the original dark grey enamel beneath the dirt and repaint, in contrast to the wheel and is a harder part to remove it from.
All buttoned up
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The wheel still needs work, but this turned out to be the easiest way to see the contrast in what needs work to what has been done, and still move it easily.
As I have mentioned, I picked this lathe up on the cheap, and it has been clear that it has been a parts machine for someone else, as many important parts are missing. So, while I don't mind spending money on a good lathe, I would prefer to spend as little as possible, thus I have been keeping my eyes open for a chuck at a reasonable price. I can find suitable models on eBay all day long, but I would rather not spend $300 to get a decent condition chuck shipped out to me. But, one night while idly surfing FBMP, I found someone selling both a three and four jaw in what looked the right sizes, and for only $100. I did have to read between the lines to make sure they were what I wanted, but he responded immediately to my query, we arranged a time to meet up as he was two hours away, and did the deal.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54278478128_a10591f68f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGpovN)
Two chucks, the keys, and he even threw in a face plate. Apparently, they came with a Craftsman 6" that he bought, and as they obviously won't fit that he moved them along. But they were so dirty as found it took me a bit of scrubbing to find the maker
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It turns out they are both Union Tool Co, which is what is listed in the catalog for the MW/Logan lathe.
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because they are easier to work with, I decided to take the 4 jaw apart first and give it a good scrubing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54312856400_58fd84dcf8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKrzYC)
after a few days in Simple Green Lemon the dirt was floating off.
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starting to look a little better
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I ran a 3/4"-10 tap though it too clean out the threads for each jaw, as they still had an impressive amount of gunk in them, keeping things from being as smooth as I would like.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54311625977_623f60b44c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKkhdr)
all buttoned up and ready for another 80 years of service. I still need to do the 3 jaw, but am very happy with how this turned out.
I also forgot to put up a picture of the finished inside of the apron
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Great pics and a terrific job. I cleaned out my four jaw just a few years ago and it was so gunked up that I was amazed it worked at all.
Thanks for taking us along --
There are times I think this part is more enjoyable than running the various machines I have brought back to life.
I am glad you are enjoying this, my wife just rolls her eyes.
Quote from: bmwrd0 on Feb 17, 2025, 06:49 PMThere are times I think this part is more enjoyable than running the various machines I have brought back to life.
I am glad you are enjoying this, my wife just rolls her eyes.
All wives roll their eyes, they don't get it, and don't want to. I avoid even discussing what I do in my shop with my wife. I find it saves me a lot of frustration. She doesn't want to hear about it, and I really don't want to see and hear her disapproval so I find silence the very best path to marital harmony.
Great job, the simple green did a fantastic job of cleaning the chuck. I think chasing the threads with a tap was also a good idea.
I decided to skip a step, and take care of the lead screw before going any further.
First was to disassemble it, and because it was so dirty, I had to use a brass drift to get it all apart
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(and yes, there is a ton of crap everywhere in my shop. A five pound bag with ten pounds of crap)
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the threads are generally good shape, but are, like I said, filthy.
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I chucked the piece up in my old , just to give me the best area to work on because I will need to constantly rotate it to get to each threat with a pick and wire brush.
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The South Bend has the long, 40" gunsmiths bed, and is the reason for this whole project; it is just too long and has made having all the tools and equipment that I want and need in here difficult. So, it will be on the block soon, and I wanted to get this part done so I can start getting the Logan assembled in the spot I want.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54345167395_c0ebe45eb8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qNibUK)
Here you can see just how much bed it takes to work on a lead screw of even a lathe with a shorter bed.
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This old grease is like concrete. Why do people use axle grease when there are oil cups, and not zerk fittings?
Great pics BMW!
Hope you don't mind a suggestion. To get the hardened grease off that lead screw try using a heat gun set on low and it will loosen up enough to give the brush a chance to do its job.
Nice project. when you done you can come up here and help with my Rivett.
Quote from: goodfellow on Feb 24, 2025, 07:13 AMGreat pics BMW!
Hope you don't mind a suggestion. To get the hardened grease off that lead screw try using a heat gun set on low and it will loosen up enough to give the brush a chance to do its job.
Great idea, and any suggestion is welcome.
I am back from a trip to visit my father's widow, and, waiting for me was a tool I bought especially to get those threads cleaned up, freeing up the old lathe to be sold.
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a 3/4"-8 ACME thread chase die. I had debated this, as it was on the pricy side, but cheap Chinese dies from eBay didn't list the outside dimensions, so I had no idea if I had a die stock of the right side, and I would prefer to do it right the first time while buying from a good place, McMaster-Carr.
And this thing is wonderful! It does the job perfectly, and quickly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54409043918_bf8e8d16e9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTWzb7)
You can see the clean threads to the right, in contrast to the still filthy threads to the left.
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One thing I wasn't counting on was that it took a 1-1/2" wrench, of which I only had in an adjustable.
Things move slowly, but they keep moving.
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These are the two hangers for the lead screw, and you can see in the first pic just how much junk needs to be removed to get down to the original paint.
I finally sold the old lathe, and now, before I remove the bench, I am starting on the cast iron legs.
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I first removed the SquareD fuse box from the side, as I won't be using it. I will not have it hard wired into the wall, but will run it with a plug and completely disconnect it when not in use.
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Seems to be a good box, will probably clean it up and see if anyone wants it.
I changed my mind about the switch box, and I have decided to keep it, as opposed to unplugging the machine each time I turn it off. So I started cleaning it up
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It seems they just painted over dirt, which does make my job easier. I will probably re-do the power flow so it feeds a little better for my application, but as I am just going to run a 3/4HP motor I am not too worried.
I like knife throw disconnects.I think keeping that was a wise decision.
So, you sold the lathe and kept the legs, is that right? As you know those legs are costly.
No, the legs are from the Logan/MW that is being restored, the South Bend had no legs. it was just on top of a bench and taking up more room than I wanted.
Life has been keeping me busy, even in retirement, but I have been working on the Logan
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The countershaft needed some looking after, and once I got it taken apart, it got a good bath in Evaporust. I am not a huge fan of the stuff normally, but in cases like getting the cone pulley taken care of, it is just the ticket.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54705237210_c2c50fbc69_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rm7D81)
Here it is, separated, and while it was soaking I was better able to get to this side of of the countershaft pulley
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And all back together, nice and clean
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More of the tedious work of scrapping the dirt and grey paint off to get down the original lacquer:
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Getting 90% of it off is easy, it just flakes off and leaves the original paint in decent shape, but the last 10% is the time consuming part, as you have to go over every inch of the cast iron and hit every tiny bit with the tip of the pic to get it to come off, and the parts that have damage to the original paint is where the cheap grey really likes to stick.
But, now we are getting somewhere with the countershaft assembly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54804625926_9226254cdb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ruU2Vy)
The yoke on the top of it, were the counter shaft bearing sit, was something I had thought I didn't receive when I picked up the project, and I had been searching for one in vain for months. But, I was going through some photos while looking for something else, and noticed it in the pics of the pile of parts I dragged home. This caused me to do a deep search for it in the garage out back, and I found it under some tarping. That piece was only from the earliest models, and was replaced by a simpler bit of cast iron to make, and is nearly impossible to find. I thought I was going to have to modify something from a later model, but was very happy to find the one I already had.
Speaking of lucky, I usually keep an eye out for any lathes for sale in the PNW where I live, and so I look through the usually online sources pretty regularly. And in doing so, I spotted an ad on Marketplace for someone selling lathe parts that looked like Logan bits, and he was only asking for a best offer. So, I shot him an offer, and within minutes he accepted, and we met an hour later in Eugene. Here is what I got:
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Tool posts, tool holders, centers, wrenches, milling attachment, backing plate, a tin of HSS
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an 8" four-jaw, change gears
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Logan tailstock with lamp, mag base and dial indicator by Mitutoyo, and a steady rest down in the bottom.
Seller said lots of people wanted him to ship it to them, but I was the first to come and pick it up.
Don`t you love it when a sweet score like that pops up.
You`ll be smiling about this score for ages.
Indeed I will Jab!
I have been doing more paint removal, but pictures of that are boring, so I got the knife switch all wired up
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Also got the butcher block top cut to size and the first locating holes drilled.
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Next is to get the butcher block stained and poly'd, then check that the bed fits, and start cleaning the old paint off of that.
That old fused switch is a sight for sore eyes. So many high amp draw machine tools used that setup. Easy to diagnose and repair -- those were the days!
Got the table top all stained/polyed, and down in the shop. Now we are putting things together:
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It looks a little like Frankenstein's Monster right now, but I needed to be able to do this by myself, safely, and get all the mounting holes square and lined up. I plan on drilling the holes oversized, so the wood can float between the legs and the bed while still being tight. I have a metal tray that came with it, but it is around 10-12 inches longer, and my shop is so small that every bit counts. It does make lining up all the screw holes harder. It would have been nice if they just made the mounting holes a nice, even distance apart, but, no, it had to be an odd number with a fraction.
Doing things like this by yourself isn't difficult, you just need to think about every step, and usually three steps, in advance, just so you don't need to go back and do everything over.