I recently purchased a new F350 with the 7.3 gas engine. I plan on running this truck for many years and at a minimum a couple hundred thousand miles. My question is what do you guys run for 5w30? I went to bob is the oil guy and that place has turned into a joke, no real consensus on a good oil but lots of pointing out of how this guy options are right and that guys are wrong.....As now I am tossing up between Penzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil1 Extended Performance, no cost difference between the two but the Mobil1 seems to be easier to find.
I`m a Castrol boy , my 1997 f150 has 480,000 on the clock.
Castrol is my choice, too. They used to do a mineral/synthetic blend (Syntec, IIRC), but I don't know if they still offer it. My Toyota made over 250k with it.
Honestly, I've been using Walmart SuperTech full synthetic 10W-30 in every car in our family fleet for several decades. It became available in 2001 and I started using it from that time on. It's manufactured by Warren Oil Co. and is also sold by COSTCO (Kirkland) and Amazon as their in-house brands. I change the oil every 3-5K miles depending on the vehicle, and we have never had any oil related engine issues in our cars.
My 1995 Rodeo made it to 225K before the frame rusted away to nothing, but the engine was still in perfect condition. Similarly my old 1988 Mazda B2600 4x4 P/U had 235K on it before I gave it away to a needy friend and the engine was also in great shape. Both vehicles started with regular Walmart 10W-30 dino oil, and then switched to full synthetic in 2001 when it became available.
I'm more picky about filters, but the SuperTech premium filters have been a great bargain as well.
The latest "craze" is 0W-8 synthetic oil in some hybrid engines. Manufacturers are really getting stupid with these oil technologies. Between 10K-15K mile oil change intervals and ultra low viscosity oils, cars are now designed not to last past the warranty period.
I've always used Pennzoil for anything that matters. For my junkers I use super tech from Walmart.
I feel oil is pretty even anymore and as long as you have a quality filter and proper intervals oil brand doesn't matter.
No to Penzoil and huge no to Fram, never never ever!
Quote from: Uncle Buck on May 07, 2025, 08:26 PMNo to Penzoil and huge no to Fram, never never ever!
+1 never ever Fram. It pains me to say it but as a former Pennsylvanian no to Penzoil as as well.
I used to know someone who worked for Penzoil, and they had a product that was only available to commercial fleets. It was a recycled oil, that had a bunch of synthetic additives, that was supposed to be quite a bit better then their regular oil. I used that in my Ranger with the 2.3 and it worked fine. Filter I tend to grab either a purolator or Wix. Did use Fram on a Riding mower, as it was what I could find when the B&S was out. (got a free rider, sat for 20 years after one year use, new carb, clean out gas line that was disconnected from fuel tank, fuel filter, oil change, sharpen blades, fix tires, battery, sold it for the $125 I had into it to the elderly neighbor that took care of daughter hill property that was 4x the size of ours).
My last vehicle (looks like it will be), I have used Valvoline.
Quote from: j.a.f.e. on May 07, 2025, 11:35 PMQuote from: Uncle Buck on May 07, 2025, 08:26 PMNo to Penzoil and huge no to Fram, never never ever!
+1 never ever Fram. It pains me to say it but as a former Pennsylvanian no to Penzoil as as well.
Those are the only two brands that are a hard no for me.
Before I sold the Mustang & the same brand of oil I've always used, Castrol.
Recycled oil AKA, BULK oil anyone pimping gas in the 50's knows that.
Pep
When I was a kid I worked for a mechanic who saved all the used oil in a 55 gallon drum. It all went in - motor oil, ATF, gear oil, whatever. He said he sold it to a recycler who did something to it, put it in metal gallon cans (metal cans that needed the puncture spout in those days no plastic jugs) and sold it in bulk. A lot of it ended up in cars with worn rings or big leaks.
When working at gas stations in the early 1980s, we always had a bucket with a funnel to drain the oilcan dregs into after topping off the oil for customers.
We used it to top our oil-burning hoopties, LOL.
And then there was Raylube. Recycled oil at 50 cents per quart at Safeway. My 67 Chevelle drank a lot of that stuff.
My wife's 2018 Toyota RAV4 specs 0W20 oil. That makes me cringe.
The Toyota recommended oil change interval is every 10K miles, which also spooks me.
I have been doing 5K or 6 months, whichever comes first, because I have read that syn oil degrades over time. Always factory Toyota filters and Mobil 1 full syn. Someone who knows told me that the factory Toyota syn oil is in fact, Mobil 1.
I don't know, but that is what I am doing. She rarely drives these days but I am doing my part.
Just curious in the No Pennzoil replys?
I'll only buy fram air filters and only if I get to see it first.
Interesting enough fram makes different quality filters. Some of them are actually well made....
https://youtu.be/BALoiHotB-I?si=1KWoL_iveP1IEyeC
I have used every brand on earth I think including Fram without any failures.
Anymore I prefer full synthetic, but what I am pouring it into always factors in. Synthetic blend I consider a viable option too because cost generally factors in as well. Many times I have used a house brand but generally prefer Q State, Valveoline, Castrol, Motorcraft for Ford products, Mobil 1 for everything. Price dependant, others as well, except Pennzoil, Fram, and spooky brands I know nothing about.
When I was a kid, the old man drilled into my head that any fluids of either of those two brands never buy and use, including oil filters. Later when the internet became a thing sites like " Bob is the oil guy" seemed to support what my pop said years before so I stuck with dad's advise.
I know when I was 18, my car used to be my fathers. He only used Penz, so I stuck with it. I did like the fram filters on it, because of the rubber back, with the filter location (no lift access).
The high mileage Penz, I thought was decent, but it was always stressed to me that is was more important that the oil and filter got changed regularly, then what brand.
I know my fram filter thing was due to getting a couple either missing the gasket, or it came off when I was putting it on (could have happened with any, just left me wondering about quality control for a bit)
For awhile there I was expecting supply line shortages to dry up oil change stuff so went on a spree of grabbing any filter I could get for the 04 Astrovan. Grabbed quite a few Frams. Other brands too - carried a oil filter cross-reference chart with me to estate sales and thrift stores cause you never knew what you would find. As long as it was unused in a sealed box I grabbed it. Probably have 10 filters left, but I'm getting so stiff I can't move around under the van anymore.
If I to do it over today I'd get K&H filters, as they have a 1 inch nut welded into the bottom making it so much easier to get off with a socket and ratchet.
(https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/8030635_A1?$456$)
I'm a rotella guy but lately I see where they don't want ya using the diesel oil in a gasser. Good thing I bought that ram. The gasser we traded it in on was a leaker. Looking back I think it was the oil pressure sender but I thought it to be the rear main seal. Either way it leaked to the end. I changed the filter once a year and kept it topped up with used oil from the other vehicles and the walmart super stuff.
I was a wix guy but since they moves the production of my numbers "offshore" I buy Baldwin.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71sF6h7fkIL._AC_SX679_.jpg)
Quote from: AbiggerGarage on May 19, 2025, 01:07 PMI know when I was 18, my car used to be my fathers. He only used Penz, so I stuck with it. I did like the fram filters on it, because of the rubber back, with the filter location (no lift access).
The high mileage Penz, I thought was decent, but it was always stressed to me that is was more important that the oil and filter got changed regularly, then what brand.
I know my fram filter thing was due to getting a couple either missing the gasket, or it came off when I was putting it on (could have happened with any, just left me wondering about quality control for a bit)
There is the key.
Obviously I can't speak for the old days, but today I believe that oil is subject to enough guidelines that regular maintenance is more important then brand.
Also does anyone know if anyone that has don't testing on old days oil compared to today?
Just curious the amount of additives that have come and gone over the years.
Quote from: Muddy on Jun 18, 2025, 07:37 PMAlso does anyone know if anyone that has don't testing on old days oil compared to today?
Just curious the amount of additives that have come and gone over the years.
There are a few video's on YT on this subject. Without a doubt today's oils are better but the biggest improvement is in filters and engine specs. Todays oils carry a lot more detergents, dispersants, and antifoam additives which leads to cleaner engines. Valvoline actually put out a neat video on YT where they took 2 identical Ford Explorers and ran them 24/7 for 500,000 miles, I think. One had synthetic and one conventional, they tore the motors down and besides the color the conventional stained the engine parts there was very little difference in the engines.
I have been running Penzoil Ultra Platinum with a Motorcraft filter. I sent off an analysis at my 3rd 5,000 mile change. All looked good and they suggested moving the interval out to 7,000. I think I will keep the interval at 5,000 miles just for my piece of mind.
Quote from: Muddy on May 08, 2025, 07:44 PMJust curious in the No Pennzoil replys?
I'll only buy fram air filters and only if I get to see it first.
Interesting enough fram makes different quality filters. Some of them are actually well made....
https://youtu.be/BALoiHotB-I?si=1KWoL_iveP1IEyeC
Same here...what's the deal with Pennzoil?